Every culture does fried food, but Italian cooks do it especially well. The concept of fritto misto (mixed fried things) can apply to vegetables, fish or meat. Here, with a beautiful assortment of shellfish, the only requirement is that everything be spanking fresh. In Italy, fritto misto is nearly always served as a first course. It is especially nice in bite-size pieces, to precede a meal as a stand-up antipasto.
For the batter:
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
 - ½ teaspoon salt
 - 1 cup white wine
 - ¼ cup seltzer or club soda
 
For the dredging:
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
 - ½ teaspoon salt
 - ½ teaspoon black pepper
 
For the fritto misto:
- 4 cups vegetable oil, or a mixture of olive oil and vegetable oil
 - ½ pound medium shrimp, peeled
 - 1 pound cleaned baby squid, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
 - ½ pound bay scallops
 - 1 pound mussels, steamed and shucked
 - 1 pound white bait or smelt
 - 1 lemon, sliced very thin
 - 1 bunch scallions, trimmed to thin, 4-inch lengths
 - Sea salt
 - Pinch of crushed red pepper for garnish, optional
 - Parsley sprigs or chopped parsley for garnish, optional
 - Lemon wedges
 

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